How to Stop Cat Litter Tracking: 7 Fixes That Actually Work

Learning how to stop cat litter tracking usually comes down to three changes: the litter, the mat and the box. No single fix gets rid of every stray granule, but stacking two or three can clear most of it off your floor. Here are the seven fixes, starting with the ones that do the most.

Why Litter Ends Up All Over the Floor

Tracking happens two ways. Granules stick to paws and fur and fall off as your cat walks away, and litter gets flung out when your cat digs and covers. Fine, light granules do both more easily, which is why the litter itself is usually the biggest factor.

Long-haired cats can track more, because litter catches in the fur between their toes. The box plays a part too. Low sides, a small floor and deep litter all give granules an easy way out. Each fix below targets one of these causes.

Fix 1: Switch to a Low-Tracking Litter

Changing the litter makes the biggest difference, so start here. Larger, heavier granules are harder to carry out on paws and harder to fling. I score litters on tracking, and pellet and large-granule litters dominate the top of the list.

Tuft & Paw scores highest for tracking and is also very low in dust, which makes it my low-tracking pick. Ökocat and Feline Pine are close behind and cost less. Treat the scores as a ranking rather than exact measurements.

Arm & Hammer makes the same point about its own Feline Pine, describing larger, heavier pellets that are much harder to fling from the box. If you’d rather stay with clumping clay, a low-dust premium clay is the better choice. My low dust cat litter guide compares 16 litters by measured dust.

Owner feedback matches the pattern. People who switch to large pellets, whether pine, paper, wood or tofu, most often say tracking nearly stops. The trade-off is that some cats dislike the feel of big pellets, so switch gradually by mixing the new litter into the old.

My own cats back this up. Tuft & Paw, Ökocat paper pellets and Feline Pine all left almost nothing outside the box. Catalyst, a soft wood clumping litter, tracked noticeably more.

Fix 2: Put a Mat Where Your Cat Exits

A mat catches what’s left on paws before it reaches the floor. The key is size and placement: it should cover the spot where your cat actually steps out, with room for a stride or two. Mat designs trade catching power against ease of cleaning.

Two-layer mats with holes trap the most, because granules drop through and can’t be kicked back out. They take more effort to empty, though. If you’d rather clean in place, a silicone or mesh mat is the easier daily option. My cat litter mat guide compares the best mats I tested.

I keep a mat by our box, and it catches most of what my cats carry out.

Fix 3: Keep the Litter About Two Inches Deep

More litter means more to kick out. Litter deeper than about four inches lets cats sink in and increases tracking, while vet guidelines suggest one and a quarter to two inches. Around two inches gives your cat enough to dig and cover without turning the box into a sandpit.

My guide on how deep cat litter should be explains where those numbers come from and includes a calculator for how much litter your box needs.

Fix 4: Use a Bigger Box With Higher Sides

A cramped box forces your cat to dig near the edges, where litter flies out. The AAFP and ISFM guidelines recommend a box about one and a half times your cat’s length from nose to base of tail. They also cite a study in which adult cats preferred a box of 34 by 15 inches, larger than most standard boxes.

High sides stop flung litter from clearing the edge, and Arm & Hammer lists high-sided boxes among its top anti-tracking tips. Look for a box with a lower entry cut-out on one side so your cat can still step in easily.

Covered and Top-Entry Boxes: The Trade-Off

Covered and top-entry boxes are the obvious fix for flung litter, but they come with a catch. The Cornell Feline Health Center says most cats prefer an uncovered box that lets odors escape and gives them a clear view around them.

The research is more mixed. In a 2013 study by Grigg and colleagues, summarized by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, most of the 27 cats showed no strong preference, and 19 used covered and uncovered boxes about equally. The AVSAB’s author still recommends large, open boxes. The study used boxes bigger than most sold, and they were scooped every day.

So a covered or top-entry box can work if your cat uses it happily and you keep it very clean. Watch closely for hesitation or accidents after the switch. Top-entry boxes also mean jumping in and out, which can be hard for kittens and older cats with stiff joints.

One of our boxes is a covered Breeze system, and its big pellets almost never leave the box. My cats were a little reluctant at first, so I set them inside a few times until they used it on their own.

Fix 5: Trim Paw Fur on Long-Haired Cats

Long-haired breeds such as Ragdolls, Persians and Maine Coons can carry litter out in the tufts between their toes. Trimming that paw fur helps. Trim only the fur that sticks out, and never cut close to the skin.

If your cat won’t sit still for it, or you’re unsure how close to trim, ask a groomer or your vet to do it. A tidier paw picks up less litter with every visit to the box.

I trim my Ragdoll’s paw fur, but honestly, I haven’t noticed much difference in tracking. The litter type and the mat have mattered far more in my home.

Fix 6: Move the Box Away From Busy Areas

Where the box sits changes how far litter travels. Arm & Hammer suggests placing it away from high-traffic areas, so tracked granules stay in one corner instead of spreading through the house. A spot with hard flooring near the box also makes sweeping easier than carpet.

Don’t tuck it somewhere your cat finds awkward or stressful to reach, though. OKC Vet Campus recommends a quiet, low-traffic spot, and a cat that avoids its box causes a much bigger mess than tracking.

Fix 7: Scoop Gently and Clean Around the Box

Rough scooping flicks litter over the edge, so lift clumps slowly and tap the scoop inside the box. Arm & Hammer recommends scooping carefully and cleaning more often. A quick sweep or vacuum around the box each time you scoop stops stray granules from traveling further.

Emptying the litter mat regularly matters too. A mat that’s already full can’t hold much more, so shake or vacuum it when you scoop.

The Bottom Line on Litter Tracking

Frequently Asked Questions

What cat litter tracks the least?

In our tracking scores, Tuft & Paw ranked highest at 9.2 out of 10, followed by PrettyLitter at 9.1, World’s Best at 9.0, Ökocat Paper Pellet at 8.9 and Feline Pine at 8.8. Large pellets and heavier granules are harder for cats to carry out on their paws.

Do litter mats really work?

Yes, if the mat is big enough and sits where your cat steps out. In our tests, two-layer mats with holes, such as BlackHole, trapped the most litter because granules fall through and can’t be kicked back out. Empty the mat often, since a full mat can’t hold much more.

Do covered litter boxes stop tracking?

They reduce flung litter, but not litter carried out on paws. The trade-off is your cat’s comfort. Cornell says most cats prefer uncovered boxes, although a 2013 study found most cats had no strong preference. Try one only if your cat accepts it and you scoop daily.

Why does my cat kick litter out?

Cats dig to bury their waste, and a small box forces them to dig near the edges. Deep litter gives them more to throw. A larger box with higher sides and about two inches of litter usually cuts the mess. The AAFP recommends a box about one and a half times your cat’s length.

Should I trim my cat’s paw fur?

For long-haired cats, trimming the fur between the toes can reduce the litter they carry out. Trim only the fur that sticks out, never close to the skin. If your cat resists or you’re unsure, a groomer or vet can do it quickly and safely.